My Grid Tie Batteryless Solar Panel Setup


How’s, it going everybody, this is beat the bush. A lot of you have asked me about my grid tie inverter setup, because last time, when I talked about it, I didn’t cover exactly the schematic layout of everything how you connect every little piece.

So today I’m gonna cover. All of that, as well as what I noticed using this system for the past few months, and some of you have the concern that if utility workers turn off the power and they think the power is not live, and then the solar energy is coming down that This grid tie inverter is gonna feed power back into the power lines and possibly electrocute people that are working on it, even though they think the power lines are off.

I went and tested this and it does turn itself off, but I’m gonna show you that it does turn itself off. So I brought the whole system over here onto my table and I’m just gonna describe it to you. Show you guys this first.

So here’s, a setup, it’s. Really dead. Simple over here. Are the power cables coming from the solar cells? Two cables? I doubled them up, so there’s, half the resistance. This is the positive terminal, negative terminal and there are actually two panels wired in series.

So it’s. Actually a 24 volt system over here – and this is a 500 watt grid-tie inverter. You can see that it’s powered on right now on green, because the solar cells are active right now and it’s. Feeding power back into my wall over here, I can turn on and off the thing I turn it off.

It goes off turn it on it’s red for a little while now it’s, green feeding power. This is the AC output over here and what you do is you just connect it plug it into the wall, and I have a kilowatt over here and you can see that it’s, feeding 93.

7 watts in that way into my wall. So now I’m gonna do a test. I’m, going to unplug this power strip from my wall and you can see it turns off. So therefore, this thing is actually not feeding 110 volts back into this thing.

Let me double check with a voltmeter now right here it’s red indicating something is wrong, which really is the AC has not plugged into the wall, but if I turn this on to AC, this represents a power line worker disconnecting the electricity.

So this should be dead right now. Technically, you think the solar cells is injecting power into this thing. Therefore, it’s, feeding it all back in here, so this should be a hundred ten volts. But if you measure it, you see it’s, not feeding power in back into the grid right now, because it is disconnected so.

The thing that this grid tie inverter does is that it’s, sensing that there is a hundred ten volts in here, first and foremost, before actually feeding power back in so I’m gonna plug this back in, and it goes.

Oh yeah, you know now there’s live power because there’s live power. We’re gonna put power back in alright. So if I disconnect this here, you shouldn’t. Do that kind of sparking it goes: okay, yeah there’s, no bar power, but actually this power inverter, just because it’s plugged in it’s, drawing power from the outlet back in because it wants to power.

This thing itself, so I’m gonna plug this back in so now it kind of ramps up as goes okay, forty, five. Okay, let’s! Let’s, tick! On more power from the solar cells. This grid tie inverter tries to extract the most power.

Therefore, the voltage across here it’s, going to be at the optimal point at which it can extract the most power. So if I go and measure the DC voltage across here it’s, not going to be 24 volts. It says 35 volts, so 35 volts right now it’s optimal.

If let’s, say this power inverter it’s, not a maximal power point transfer grid tie inverter, then the terminals over here might read 24 volts and the output power here might not be 75 Watts. It might be something a lot lower 40 Watts.

So the fact that this thing is going to adjust the voltage in order to try to get the most power out means it’s. A maximum power transfer grid tie inverter just taking the kilowatt out of this whole system and measuring the AC see the AC here is not live.

Should I touch it? Okay, see not dead back in. We can see that the AC from the wall 124 volts solar panels outside it’s, generating about 104 watts going in here that are the the AC cable. You know goes all the way in here back into the wall hundred five watts.

So I brought my solar panels in there’s, no Sun. So it reads point eight Watts right now, just so that we can see it inside over. Here I’m looking at one of the panels, one of the stickers in the back.

You can see it’s a 100 watt panel, but realistically I’m only getting about 75 watts or so 21.6 volt for open circuit. That is, if you’re, not drawing any power from it. Seventeen point: nine volts optimum voltage that’s.

Why, when you double this, it’s about 36 volts right – and this is what you see over here when I was measuring it just a little while ago. Now each one of these panels is a 12 volt panel and I went with a 24 volt system because I wanted to have less amount of connectors.

My thinking was, I could just connect to this one over here. This signifies it’s. A series connection right, therefore, I only need two more connections over here to route to that inverter. This is the positive here.

It goes through this that’s 12 volts already. This gets in series with this one, so this is 24 volt strings. Both of these together that’s, why it’s called in a series, two cables, and what I had to do is by these little pink tail things it went from here to here, and I went to and soldered speaker cables.

I doubled them up over here and connect it to the end of this thing, and mainly because I have speaker cables around and I have the ability to do dis, soldering, do shrink, wrap and stuff and actually buying a pigtail like this with 30 feet of cable.

Is actually quite expensive, so I thought I would save some money by you know just attaching my own cable, my own speaker, cable here. So you can see. I have I don’t know about a length of this stuff and then this goes all the way to what you saw before someone did mention in one of the comments.

Maybe I should even address it because you know it’s wrong that if you connect two wires in parallel, the current actually goes through the one with the least amount of resistance. This is incorrect. It’s, actually proportional to it and let’s say one of the wires is, you know, point 0:01, a little bit less in other it’s not going to flow all the current on the lesser resistance cable.

So when I double these cables up, actually what’s happening is half the current is gonna go on one cable and half is gonna go to the other, so you can see. Maybe you want to see the front of this thing.

I’m kind of surprised that it’s gotten a little bit dirty because it’s been outside about. Has it been a month or something you can actually go and check my video, how old it is and that’ll. Tell you how how long it’s been out there.

I was kind of surprised today because it was reading something like 140 watt like the highest it’s ever been. Even though I can see that the panel’s, it’s, a little dusty right now, you can see. I mean wow, so I’m gonna clean this up.

So here’s, a diagram of it. I got two solar panels: 12 volt, each wired in series, technically 24 volt together, but optimally operates better at 36 volts. I have a 500 watt grid-tie inverter, these things normally produce 70 watts, or so so it’s way under the 500 watt limit.

The AC goes into my kilowatt so that I can measure how much energy it’s, pushing back into the wall. I have the wall over here and then it goes to the circuit breaker after the circuit breaker. This goes to you know my utility meter and then from there on it goes back out to the grid, typically in any County or something you do need to have a contract with your utility in order to push electricity back out or if you are connecting it.

Like this, you are connecting it to the grid, because the circuit breaker is on and you or physically connected to the grid. Therefore, you need a contract. What I’m currently doing here is, I am highly under powering the solar system, just so that I can play around with it measure it and the maximum I’ll ever see coming out of the system is 150 watts.

So technically, if I have a whole bunch of other stuff working in the home, for example, I have some lights. I have a stove going on and let’s say my lights is consuming 150 watts, okay, very powerful lights incandescent or something not that.

I have incandescent, but let’s, say 150 watts go into my wall of the same circuit in the house, not going to the circuit breakers at all, because within your house you have. You know five 10 different circuits that are on separate lines that can be disconnected from each other with a circuit, breaker, so 150 watts going in here and then my lights are consuming 150 watts.

You might actually want to put your own circuit breaker here, but typically what happens is maybe in my house I’m, not going to withdraw 150 Watts right from the same circuit. I have a whole bunch of other little things.

You know a couple Watts here: a couple Watts there. Maybe my computer is somewhere else. Maybe I’m using a stove that’s 1,000 Watts. So what’s? Gon na happen is, since all these circuit breakers are on and stuff it’s, generating 150 watts.

It’s, actually gonna flow through here out to the breaker, and then my stove is gonna consume. You know all this 150 watts and then because it doesn’t have enough power. It’s. Gon na take the rest from the utility company, so it’s still gonna need.

You know 850 watts from the utility. Now, what happens if I’m, not using the stove, the lights are not on, nothing else is on and the solar panels is on and it’s, generating 150 watts. What’s gonna happen? Is this gonna go warp and then go? You know, push it back to the utility.

So what happens if the utility workers want to work on this piece of the wiring over here? So they cut that electricity over here and they think all of this is not powered. But what happens is this grid-tie inverter goes hey there’s.

There’s, no 110 volt voltage that’s coming in all the way here, therefore, it goes. Okay, the power is turned off, so we’re, not gonna push any power back out there for the utility workers cutting power to here they are safe.

If you use a grid tie inverter. That actually has this feature and the one I use that I’ve tested, does have this feature thanks for watching everybody. I hope this was helpful if you guys are interested in the products I use.

I’ll, leave a link down in the video description below again. If you want to grid tie to your utility companies, you actually need a contract with them. Thanks for watching everybody, don’t forget to give me a like comment down below push that subscribe button and ring that Bell icon.

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