DIY 2000 watt, 24v Solar Power System w/ LiFePO4 Batteries

This right here is my new 24 volt system, and I think you guys are gonna love it because it’s, insanely powerful for the price it can handle 1,000 to 2,000 watts of solar panel power as 2.4 kilowatt hours of lithium iron phosphate Batteries, a pure sine wave, inverter and its overall amazing every step of the process of charging and discharging is extremely efficient.

We also have a battery protect which has short circuit protection that protects the inverter. We can also change the charge and discharge cycle bandwidth with this, because it’s programmable. We can also program this to whatever we need, so we can use any battery out there.

Also, if you guys have 12 volt appliances, you can connect them right here because we have a converter. So this is a very simple easy system that anybody can build, but it’s, insanely powerful. I mean think about how much money you need to spin for a 12 volt system that can handle 400 watts of solar.

It’s, pretty much the same cost as this, but instead of 400 watts you can handle 1,000 to 2,000 watts of solar power and what I mean by 1,000 to 2,000. This can produce 1040 watts of charging power, but you can over panel with this.

Also, these batteries are rated for 10 years with the warranty, but because their lithium iron phosphate and we’re using it with solar with low C charge ratings. These things should last 20 years or more, they’re extremely stable batteries, and they will not degrade unless you store them in hot temperatures or you use them in a stupid fashion.

For this system, these batteries have the perfect discharge rate to work with this inverter. They also have the perfect charge rate for a long cycle length to work with this solar charge controller. So I designed this so that all the components can work together.

So you guys cannotice, there are no fuses on this system. These have short-circuit protection of 100 amps and then we have 4 gauge copper wire going up to here, and this has short-circuit protection. And then we have a circuit breaker.

The only positive line that’s, not on these circuit breakers, goes through this low terminal, which has 20 amp circuit breaker inside I totally forgot. We do have a fuse. It’s right here, cutting I forgot about that.

So anyways. Most of circuit breakers, except for this little fuse, but I don’t think this fuse is going to trip, because this has a circuit breaker for overcurrent protection right here. So if this wire were to short-circuit, this fuse would blow, but in any other circumstance this thing would catch it instead.

Also, you guys can ignore this automatic transfer switch. This is optional. I like using this so that if this battery goes low, I can switch to grid power for my AC appliances, and this is nice because you can also program it similar to the battery protect and you can switch over to grid power and the batteries hit a Certain voltage, so if the batteries are at like 20 %, I can switch over to grid power.

So my batteries will last a very very long time, and all of this is standard equipment that you can find on Amazon every single part here and if you guys don’t want to watch this whole video of me building it.

You can simply go to my website and I will have a high definition picture of this board and I will also have a parts list, so you can go through the parts list and just buy everything and then boom. You have this system, so let’s.

Talk about the cost of all of these things. These battle boards are pretty darn expensive, but for their lifecycle they’re very, very cheap compared to a lead-acid. It’s $ 900. Here $ 900 here this inverter is 269 dollars.

It’s, a 2000 watt, 24 volt inverter. Next we have the solar charge controller. This is $ 200. The battery protect or the low voltage disconnect and short-circuit protection. This is $ 50 for the 100 amp model.

We also have this. These are like 20 bucks or 10 bucks. They’re kind of overpriced, but they work really well. It’s. A negative bus bar this fuse box is 40 bucks. You can buy cheap ones for $ 10. I definitely recommend getting a high quality one though this converter is like 35 dollars and then the wire.

I think it was like 70 bucks because it’s, pure copper. It’s. The best you can get it’s, windy nation came with the lugs. I used my own heat shrink and then this circuit breaker is like 12 bucks. So it’s, pretty much the same cost as like a 400 watt, 12 volt system, the automatic transfer switch is optional, but I think it’s like 100 and 200 dollars.

I totally forgot how much it cost. Please watch my other video if you want to know about automatic transfer switches, because that’s more in depth, more detailed. I I do not want to cover this in this video, so yeah, let’s get started, and let me show you how I built it.

What four dollars of paint from Home Depot looks like on the board. This system is going to be a rearranged in a different way than my usual systems. I’m, going to have two batteries down here in series and then the positive is going to be on this side and it will go up to this battery.

Protect and then the negative will be on this side and it will go up to this negative terminal, bus bar and then up here. I will connect the inverter and solar charge controller to the positive and negative, and then I can add whatever I want later on up here, so that all the components are mounted on the board.

We can wire this all up. I must say I really like the organization of this system, and this is what the converter looks like when it’s wired up, we have positive and negative, and these wires are held against the board.

With some cable clips, we have a 25 amp fuse, also realize that this fuse box is designed to output up to 150 amps. We only have 40 amps going in and I’m only using this for lights and up to around 20 amps max.

So this works for my system. I’ve, been working on it and it looks pretty good it’s, nice and clean all. The wires are where they need to be. We have a 50 amp circuit breaker between this line and the solar charge controller, and then we also have the ground for this.

I’m, not gonna wire. This up yet, but yeah everything looks really strong and good get out guys. We have this system completely built. I got some 4 gauge wire this morning and hooked up the main battery cables to the battery protect the negative bus bar and it looks pretty good, alright guys now super important part.

We’re gonna learn how to connect these in series and before we connect to bowel burns in series. We need to connect them in parallel, so they equalize in voltage, and then we put them in series ii and before we connect them.

In parallel, we need to make sure that they’re around the same voltage. So let’s figure out the voltage of this one. Thirteen point: three: nine: the voltage of this one, thirteen point three: seven or three six, so these are close enough in voltage that we can connect them.

If they were not in one was extremely discharged. We would have to charge them both up individually, but because they’re around the same voltage, we can safely connect them in parallel. So now we have the negative cable connected on the terminals and we can put an amp meter between these two and because they are almost the same voltage.

There is practically nothing going through here at all, but luckily these batteries come from battleborn charge to the same voltage. So if you buy a bunch of battleborn, just check the voltage and then you can put them all in series if you want, and now we’re gonna learn how to put these batteries in series so put the batteries close to each other.

Somehow, and one of the positives will attach to one of the negatives, so you want to keep them close together and you want to have a very thick cable for this. If you’re doing 12 volts, this should be 0 or 2 gauge.

If you’re doing 24 volts, you can get away with 4 gauge, but it depends on your application, like we have positive, negative, negative connected to a positive and then we have a negative. So now we have a negative and a positive, and these will be 24 volts if we connect to 12 volt batteries in series with most batteries.

I would put a bolt on fuse right here, but this has short circuit protection inside the battery, but understand that the short circuit protection you need to use a thick enough gauge cable for the amps that it can protect to in this cable is thick enough.

So I can connect this directly to the battery and understand that when you’re tightening this, you do not want to put a conductor between these two spots. If these two terminals touch metal at the same time, there’s, going to be a huge spark.

The batteries will shut down, but you do not want to have that happen. This is the finished product. Also understand that, if you have lots of these batteries in parallel use a very thick gauge wire to connect them for 24 volt systems, you don’t have to deal with as much so.

A 2 gauge wire is okay. If you just have to like this in series, you can use a 4 gauge, but but it has to be pure copper. High quality wire check this out is finally complete. It looks amazing. We’re at twenty six point six volts and I just need to connect some solar panels to this wire right here, but it is completely finished and to talk about the charge profile parameters for the battleborn when you connect them in series with the Solar charge controller, so this is going to be a 24 volt system, so we need to do a modified charge profile.

So typically, you can use the sealed lead-acid, but I’m doing user, so I can change it a little bit more. So, first temperature compensation coefficient needs to be zero. Next, the charge limit needs to be twenty nine point two: next, the float charge needs to be 27.

2. Equalized time needs to be zero. If you get all of those parameters right, you are set, everything else can be a standard profile for sealed lead-acid, but the ones I just mentioned should be changed for best results.

This is the finished product. I think it looks amazing, you guys think. Does it look? Good or what all of the cables are situated nicely, you could probably add a little bit more organization, but I think it looks really good, so I’m, actually pretty bummed to get rid of this setup.

I’m gonna have to reconfigure everything the new one will last longer because it’s, lithium iron phosphate, but man. This is really nice. I haven’t touched it at all and it works so well. It’s to be done and we’re gonna rip.

This thing out today feels so bad. I love this battery, but we need lifting iron phosphate and I want to make it pretty. We’re gonna paint. It we’re gonna use different components. It’s, gonna be really nice, so I have the inverter and the converter disconnected, and before I disconnect the battery, we need to disconnect the solar.

So now the solar power array is disconnected now. I can safely disconnect the battery here’s. The inverter and here’s. The battery protect. I love these. They look so good too out you go holy. I might sell it to one of the fans if you guys want it.

You know this thing that’d, be cool. It’s, perfect condition. I have never over discharge or overcharge or anything stupid, temperature-controlled. Everything’s, good! Alright, it’s off. I love this thing.

Look how tiny it’s such a cool shape man, people need to make batteries this shape. It’s, so nice now guys we have a battery graveyard. So here’s, my Tesla, those are the LG cells in the back with the plastic bag.

Is my lithium iron phosphate? I’m, actually gonna put that in the front, because I love using it for other projects but yeah. It’s nice to have this little compartment in the RV. For my little used batteries,