What do a power outage and an off-grid camping trip have in common well, in both cases, it’s nice to have a battery backup at hand, and today I’m, going to show you how to build one yourself. What you can see here are the most essential components needed to build this project itself.
First of all, and probably most importantly right after the battery, of course, is the solar charging controller for LED acid batteries. It reaches several protective circuits, such as an overcharge and over discharge.
Protection for batteries also sealed lead acid battery, sealed ones have the advantages of being maintainence free and they can be stored in pretty much any direction. They are most commonly used in alarm systems and need to be changed after fixed intervals.
So you can pick them up cheaply on eBay, a power supply which delivers between fifteen and twenty six volts. So you can charge the battery without the need of solar panels to CUSO, discuss the suitable fuses for safety.
Also for safety thick enough wire, a formula to calculate the right for our size will be on the screen. Some chrome, connectors few outputs and TC 2 X, 2 Euler switches avoid an F me to 2 meter. The voltage input status of the battery if you are polled LED lights.
I’m, also going to show you in this video how to build a waterproof enclosure or 12 volt LED bulb and, last but not least, a toolbox as an enclosure for little projects. The first thing you’re going to do is drill a bunch of holes for the components into the right side of the toolbox.
For this it’s helpful to have some templates. I designed the layouts on the computer and you can download those files online, strut, bolts, page the links in the description for the biggest circular holes as well as for the rectangular holes.
You simply drill a bunch of small holes on the sides. Then you push the plastic through and do the rest of it with a file. When you’re filing, you need to make sure to remove the right amount of material.
You should always test if your components fit in nicely the hole. Shouldn’t, be too big, but they shouldn’t, be too tight either because components like switches might not work wide if they’ve fitted in too tightly.
Now that all your components are fitting nicely into its side. It’s time to move on to some case modifications. The battery is the heaviest component, so it should be placed in the middle of the box to keep the white balance in order to make it stay in the middle.
You simply cut out a plastic sheet. You can cut them out of polystyrene like I did, but I recommend using Plexiglas as it soon as it’s. Much stiffer you insert them and glue them in with some hot glue.
You will also have to add a little flap on top of it later to Mantic to mount the solar charging controller. The next modification is used to make the Box rain proof. As you can see here, the lid of the box has a lot of holes, so in case it rains the rain might roll through and to go into the components or battery.
I don’t want that. So I used some 90-degree plastic angle and edit them and close the holes by putting them on top of it and adding a lot. I really mean a lot of hot air. It doesn’t, look super nice, but it works and it will keep it right now.
Another minor case modification I did that has quite a significant impact on the look of the box was adding some custom stickers. I printed those out with a laser printer at my local coffee shop to copy cast around nineteen cents, because I brought my own glossy label paper.
I don’t really know how water-resistant this is, but I guess it will be suitable for a few raindrops don’t forget to clean the box with a coat before you apply the stickers to make them stick perfectly.
Next. Up is, of course, connecting all the components it’s up to you, whether you want to solder everything or connect everything with clamps. I solder this. I soldered certain components and connected others with clamps the clamps.
Have you the advantage that you can quickly? Interchange components or upgrade the box of the words you can see the wiring diagram. The circuit can basically be separated into three sections. The first one is the input section, which is basically just a DC socket connected to the solar inputs of the charter.
The second one is the battery section, which is the battery fused with a 15 amp fuse and connected to the battery pins of the charging controller, and third section is the output section, which is also fused by a 15 amp fuse and connected to the load.
Pins of the controller, but that’s, not everything. You can also see a voltmeter or current meter right here in the middle. On the back of this meter, you will find two connectors. One has free thick wires.
Those are the measuring wires, the black and the blue ones are connected to a shunt resistor inside the voltmeter, which is basically just a sensing resistor. The black wire goes to the negative load pin of the controller, and the blue wire goes out to the outputs on the other connector.
You will find two thin wires: a black and a red one. This is the power source for the meter. You can simply connect both red wires of the meter together and connect them to the positive load pin of the controller.
You might also have recognized that the negative power pin of the voltmeter is connected directly to the negative connector of the battery. The reason for this is simple: if the battery voltage drops below a certain point, I think it’s.
Ten point: five volts the controller shuts off the load or, to be more precise, the negative load pin to protect the battery from discharging too much. In this case, the meter won’t work either, but you still want to see which voltage to the battery has right now, so you simply bridge it and connect it directly to the negative pin of the battery.
I also added a switch, so it doesn’t drain power unnecessarily, and it’s not needed. Another special thing that can be seen here is on the bottom right. This is the LED interior light. It basically consists of two 12 volt LED stripes connected in parallel.
The circuit has two switches on the plus side. Is a momentary switch you can see this year? It is supposed to turn the lights off when the lid is closed. Just like the switches in your refrigerator on the negative side, we have a free position switch.
The middle position is off the top position, simply connected to the negative load pin of the controller, but the bottom position connected to directly to the negative pin of the battery. If the controller shuts off the power, because the battery is already drained to a certain point, you sometimes still need some emergency light and that’s.
Why? I added this switch position, so this was the wiring diagram on paper and while I was explaining the CEO, I’ll soda everything together, so let’s. Take a look at how it looks inside the box in the picture here you can see how the battery and the input socket are connected to the controller, which is pretty straightforward.
The second picture shows how the output section, as well as the meter and the LED lights, are connected. You can pause the video here because I’m not going to go into too much detail. A detailed explanation can be found on Instructables page, as I probably said, multiple times during this video already now.
The box is basically ready to use, but I think the finishing touch is missing the final modification that would make it unique and a little bit more appealing to the eye. You can see that the controller is five LEDs, but they are just boring red and green ones showing how full the battery is and whether or not can be connected and stuff.
Like that. I wanted that to be displayed on the front with super-bright LEDs. Instead of the boring red and green ones, and in different colors, of course, so I made this panel, it is basically milky Plexiglas cut to size and I put another self-made sticker on top, I originally planned to simply open up the controller, remove some resistors and hook The new bright LEDs up to it, but that didn’t work out the LEDs on the controller, get one point: nine volt or one point a world vote or whatever it’s less than a neat, and I didn’T want to mess around with the circuitry on the controller, because I didn & # 39.
T really understand it. When I looked at it, so what I did instead was creating this circuit. You can find an in-depth explanation on this on my Instructables page, but for now I’m just going to say it features a timer circuit.
So when I press the button, it stays on for 15 seconds and a few LD air sensors that are placed on top of the controller. So they see which LEDs of the controller is on, send it to the main board, which has the LEDs connected to it.
And they basically repeat what you can see on the controller, so I have the vision I visualize. What the controller shows me again on the front, I miniaturize the circuit a little bit to make everything fit nicely into the box.
Then I drilled some holes for the LEDs hot glued the plexiglass plate on on the front. Don’t forget to clean it before you do something like this and then I went and included the LEDs in place from the backside.
The last thing I did was through a small hole for the switch which are also hot glued in place. Then I simply connect the positive and negative wires directly to the battery terminals of the controller and press the button, and, as you can see, it looks great now you get yourself a good-looking, practical and easy to use battery backup, no matter here in the camping situations Or if there’s a real emergency case, this thing will definitely come in handy anyways.
I wasn’t able to cram anything into this ten minute video. So there’s going to be a part. Two, I’m, going to explain you how you can charge this thing from the grid and how to make some LED light so make sure to watch this as well.
All of the template circuit, diagrams and more detailed information can also be found. A man struck tables page, as always. The links in the description I’m, always happy about some feedback, so you can leave likes dislikes and comments all over the video.
If you want to stay updated about my latest project, you can consider subscribing anyways that’s it for this video. I’ll, see you in the next one